This dress coat, one of the two main surviving tailcoats, is a dark evening coat with a sharply cut front. The other one is the morning coat (or cutaway in American English), which is cut away at the front in a gradual taper.
Types of tailcoats
Dress coat
Beau Brummel wears a Regency period dress coat as daytime dress. The coat is able to close and the tails are knee length.
A dress coat, sometimes called a swallow-tail or claw-hammer coat, is the coat that has, since the 1850s, come to be worn only in the evening by men as part of the white tie dress code, also known as evening full dress, for formal evening occasions. The modern dress coat is an evolution of the coat that was once both day and evening dress. It became increasingly popular from around the late 1790s and was particularly widespread during the British Regency, and in America in the 1830s to 1850s.[1]. The eighteenth century dress coat was supplanted in the 1850s as formal day wear by the frock coat, which was in turn replaced in the twentieth century by the morning coat. In the Regency period, the dress coat with guilt buttons was always worn with non-matching trousers, pantaloons or breeches. Since the Victorian era, the modern dress coat for evening wear has been worn with matching trousers of the same cloth with two stripes of braiding down the side. The resulting suit is traditionally referred to by tailors as a dress suit.
A dress coat is waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back. Sometimes there is a pocket on the inside to hold gloves. Since around the 1840s the dress coat has lacked outside side pockets, but prior to this it took flapped side pockets. Since the early twentieth century it has become acceptable to have a welted pocket on the outside of the chest to hold a pocket square, but prior to this dress coats lacked any outer pockets. The front of the skirt is squarely cut away. Since around the 1830's the coat has been constructed with a waist seam that allows greater waist suppression. From the Victorian era, the revers has taken facings in silk (grosgrain or satin) on the lapels. Although it is double-breasted, since the 1870s, the dress coat no longer fastens in the front[2]. As a result, although there are two rows of buttons, these are all non-functional, serving only a decorative function.
As part of modern white tie, either a black or midnight blue dress coat is worn with a stiff detachable white wing-collar dress shirt, with a plain starched bib, and single cuffs fastened with cufflinks; a matching white bowtie and white waistcoat; black trousers; and black patent leather pumps with stockings.
Morning coat
Two men wearing morning coats at a wedding. 1929.
A morning coat (or cutaway in American English) is a man's coat worn as the principal item in morning dress. The name derives from morning nineteenth century horseback riding exercise for gentlemen. It was regarded as a casual form of half dress. Gradually it became acceptable as an alternative to the frock coat for formal day wear or full dress. Since the nineteenth century it is normally only seen at weddings, formal funerals and, in England, race meetings such as Royal Ascot and the Derby. Also, the United States Solicitor General typically wears it when arguing before the United States Supreme Court, and male members of the cabinet of Japan wear it in their first public appearance following the formation of the cabinet.
A morning coat is a single-breasted coat, the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle, and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam. The lapels are usually double-breasted style, not step, since the coat is now only worn as formalwear; when it was first introduced, the step lapel was common, since it was worn as half dress. The coat can be grey or black as part of morning dress, and is usually worn with striped trousers.
The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is dove grey with matching trousers and waistcoat.
Shadbelly
In the extremely conservative field of equestrianism, a variant called a shadbelly is still worn in certain disciplines in its eighteenth century role as daytime formalwear. It is basically a form of dress coat which is closer in cut to the early nineteenth century style worn by Beau Brummel than to the modern version worn with evening formal dress.
Levée dress coat
Is a type of dress coat traditionally worn with court dress, until the mid twentieth century. It was made of black velvet and traditionally worn at court, levées, and evening state parties by those who did not wear uniforms. A version made of black barathea was also worn as diplomatic dress. It was single breasted with a stand up collar, with plain gauntlet cuffs, and three pointed flap pockets on the waist seam. It had six metal buttons at the front, and two decorative buttons at the back. The body of the coat was lined with white silk, and skirts with black silk. It was worn with breeches, black silk hose, white bow tie, white gloves, and court shoes (pumps) with steel buckles. The front of the coat was cut away squarely like a standard dress coat.[3]
Highland coatee
This is worn with Highland dress, and has a square cut away front like a dress coat, but the tails are cut significantly shorter.
Footman's coat
This was worn as livery (servant's uniforms) and was knee length with a sloped cut away front like a morning coat. It was single breasted with a stand up collar and guilt buttons. There were three pronged side pockets similar in style to the levée dress coat.
Bibliography
Antongiovanni, Nicholas: The Suit, HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006. ISBN 0-06-089186-6
Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5
Byrd, Penelope: The Male Image, Men's Fashion in England 1300-1970. B.T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1979. ISBN 0 7134 0860
Croonborg, Frederick: The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring. Croonborg Sartorial Co. New York and Chicago, 1907
Cunnington, C. Willet; Cunnington, Phyllis: Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century, Plays Inc, Boston, 1970 reprint
Cunnington, Phyllis; Mansfield, Alan: Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950, Plays Inc, Boston, 1973 reprint
Devere, Louis: The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System (London, 1866) revised and edited by RL Shep. RL Shep, Medocino, California, 1986. ISBN 0-914046-03-9
Druessedow, Jean L. (editor): Men's Fashion Illustration from the Turn of the Century Reprint. Originally Published: New York: Jno J Mitchell Co. 1910. Dover Publications, 1990 ISBN 0-486-26353-3
Doyle, Robert: The Art of the Tailor, Sartorial Press Publications, Stratford, Ontario; 2005. ISBN 0-9683039-2-7
Flusser, Alan: Dressing the Man, Harper-Collins, 2002. ISBN-13: 978-0060191443
Minister, Edward: The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting (London, 1853) Vol 1 & II. Edited with notes by RL Shep, Mendocino, California, 1993. ISBN 0-914046-17-9
Peacock, John: Men's Fashion - the Complete Sourcebook, Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 1996. ISBN 0500017255
Roetzel, Bernhard: Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion. Könemann; Königswinter, 2004. ISBN 3-8331-1061-9
Salisbury, WS: Salisbury’s System of Actual Measurement and Drafting for all Styles of Coats upon Geometric Principles. New York 1866. Reprinted in Civil War Gentlemen: 1860 Apparel Arts and Uniforms by RL Shep, Mendicino, California, 1994. ISBN 0-914046-22-5
Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770-1870. Laura Ashley Press, ISBN 0-9508913-0-4
Unknown author: The Standard Work on Cutting Men’s Garments. 4th ed. Originally pub. 1886 by Jno J Mitchell, New York. ISBN 0-916896-33-1
Vincent, WDF: The Cutter’s Practical Guide. Vol II "All kinds of body coats". The John Williamson Company, London, circa 1893.
Waugh, Norah: The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900, Routledge, 1964. ISBN 0-87830-025-2
Whife, A.A (ed): The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier. The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951
NOTE:
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