In traditional Chinese dress, a changshan (traditional Chinese: 長衫; simplified Chinese: 长衫; pinyin: Chángshān literally "long shirt") is the male equivalent of the women's qipao (cheongsam). It is also known as a changpao (chángpáo 长袍) or dagua (大褂 dàguà).
The Mandarin word changshan is cognate with the Cantonese term chèuhngsàam, which has been borrowed into English as 'cheongsam'. Unlike the Mandarin term, however, Cantonese chèuhngsàam can refer to both male and female garments, and in Hong Kong it is frequently used for the body-hugging female garment rather than for the male changshan. The Hong Kong usage is reflected in the meaning of 'cheongsam' in English, which refers exclusively to the female garment.
History
Clan elders wearing changshan in late 2006, during a local Da Jiu festival in Hong Kong's Tuen Mun District.
Changshan, along with qipao, were introduced to China during the Qing Dynasty (17th century–20th century). The Manchus ordered that all Chinese should adopt the changshan style of dress—or face execution. Thus, the traditional Chinese Hanfu style of clothing was gradually replaced. Over time, the Manchu style gained popularity.
Changshan was formal dress for Chinese men before Western-style suits became common in China.
The male changshan went well with the western overcoat, fedora, and scarf, and portrayed a unique East Asian modernity.
The 1949 Communist Revolution ended the wearing of changshan and other similar clothing in Shanghai, but Shanghainese emigrants and refugees brought the fashion to Hong Kong where it has remained popular. Recently there has been a revival of the Shanghainese changshan in Shanghai and elsewhere in mainland China.
Use of changshan
Chiang Kai-shek (right) and his son in 1948. Chiang Kai-shek was wearing a changshan
Changshan are traditionally worn in pictures, weddings, and other more formal historically Chinese events. A black changshan, along with a rounded black hat, was, and sometimes still is, the burial attire for Chinese men.
Changshan are not often worn today in Mainland China, except during traditional Chinese celebrations but, with the revival of some traditional clothing in urban mainland China, the Shanghainese style functions as a stylish party dress (cf. Mao suit).
Mainland Chinese, even the elderly, rarely have any changshan left from before the Cultural Revolution.
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