Milan - There's a moment when sad is beautiful and melancholy has a certain brilliant charm, which was the case Monday in Milan when witnessing the romantically rural collection by Burberry for Spring 2009.
Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey, who keeps a house on the Yorkshire moors, went for posh, yet very hip, pastoral this season with muddied hews and weather beaten finishes.
Many models wore plaid rain caps as they trudged down the catwalk, made of country farmhouse kitchen black slate, seemingly escaping a downpour. Half the opening looks were dip dyed as if the elements had soiled their trim, or weathered their finish to a fine dreamy patina.
The heart of the matter was the unlikely, yet thrilling, choice of combinations: ever heard of fluted chiffon pants, scrawny, semi sheer cashmere tops and ragged raincoats as a combo? It sounds a tad improbable, but it worked with great charm and looked new.
"I was inspired by a book I read called Garden People. So I wanted a country gal moment but sophisticated at the same time," explained Bailey backstage.
The mood throughout was nostalgic as Bryan Ferry crooned through a dark dirge of lost love, "Make You Feel My Love." And the heartrending finale was a tremendous climax with Bailey's broken lace or faux lizard coats and trenches, great poet rock princesses' looks all of which were stunning.
As ever, Bailey whipped up some great accessories, from clunky, African wood bracelets to a great series of lovingly worn and faded leather outback rider bags.
Other standouts were long linen jackets, as if borrowed from the boyfriend, sensational experimental test tube skirts, faux jodhpur-jogging pants and a marvelous series of lace looks finished with erratic sequins and baubles.
Bailey is a famously hard working designer who brings all the elements to bear in any show to best present his aesthetic. Take this show, where the paper lace covered invite mimicked the very fabrics that climaxed the show, and where the walls of the exhibition space were composed of staggered plastic panels that aped the great new hyper pale and uber enlarged plaid used, brilliantly, in leather trimmed clutches, finely cut trenches and picnic dresses.
FROM YAHOO
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