The cap is originally in the shape of a flat cylinder, having a red upper surface (called tepelak). identical to the Herzegovina and Lika caps. It was entirely red until Prince-Bishop Petar II Petrović Njegoš surrounded it with a black rim (called derevija)[1], and the definition given was as a sign of grief of occupied Kosovo. The Kosovo myth was very popular in the old Montenegrin state.
The national telling recorded the most often version of the cap is: the black wrapper was sign of grief for the once big Empire, the red the bloody defeat at the Battle of Kosovo[2] and the five small stripes on the top represent the remaining remains of the once greater Serbian realm[3], which became increasingly popular amongst the common folk during the reign of Prince Danilo I Petrović-Njegoš. Within the stripes is angled a six star, representing the last free part, Montenegro, shining upon the fallen and conquered[4]. Worn by the rulers and chieftains, the version with the Montenegrin Cross in the star's place became excessively popular amongst the ordinary people, a symbol of the Montenegrin Orthodox Church, which effectively worked on maintaining the national identity.
Prince Danilo in the many variations introduced his initials "ДI" (Danil the 1st), while his successor Prince Nicholas in the second half of the 19th century replaced it with "Н.I", quite often alongside the letter "Ж" signifying "Живио" (Long live!). The version with the Serbian cross became forced on the Montenegrin people after the 1918 unification with Serbia.
During the Communist era in the second half of the 20th century instead of the Serb cross the Communist Red Star was implanted between the golden stripes, although it was not fully spread amongst the people and never fully accepted. Several years ago a new version appeared with a large modern Coat of Arms of Montenegro spread across the cap's red top, that is becoming increasingly popular as a sign of the Montenegrin nation's independence and sovereignty. A female version of the cap was introduced, so far worn almost exclusively by men.
NOTE:
double sides fusible interlining
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