2008年10月5日星期日
Anthony Eden hat
The "Anthony Eden" (rarely "Eden") was not marketed as such and the name was purely informal, but the use of the term was widespread, entering dictionaries and phase books: for example, it was still listed in the 17th edition of Brewer in 2005. It came into particular vogue among civil servants and diplomats in Whitehall and, to that extent, rather belied the stereotypical view, that lasted until well after the Second World War, of civil servants as a "bowler hat" brigade.
Eden's style
Eden became, at 38, the youngest Foreign Secretary since Pitt the Younger in the late 18th century. As a relatively youthful politician among mostly much older men, he appeared fashionably dressed, even flamboyant. In 1936 the American magazine Time referred to his "pin-stripe trousers, modish short jacket and swank black felt hat", worn during a diplomatic mission to the League of Nations in Geneva.[1] Many remarked too on Eden's "film star" appeal, even as late as the 1950s[2] when, as Prime Minister, he retained his youthful good looks.[3] His biographer D. R. Thorpe commented on a photograph of Eden, arriving in Russia by train in hat and fur-lined coat in 1935, that "it seemed to some as if Tolstoy's Count Vronsky [a glamorous character in the novel Anna Karenina] were alighting at the platform".[4]
The "glamour boys"
The journalist Malcolm Muggeridge, who was not an admirer of Eden, recalled that, among other qualities, "an elegant appearance and an earnest disposition...equipped him for dazzling advancement...An astrakhan collar became him. What came to be known as an Anthony Eden hat grew on heads like his".[5]
Certainly there were those who believed that Eden's rapid rise through the political hierarachy owed as much to image as to substance.[6] In the period between his resignation from Neville Chamberlain's Cabinet in 1938 and his return on the outbreak of war in 1939, Eden and his acolytes, who, broadly speaking, favoured a tougher stance against Hitler and Mussolini, were often referred to as "the glamour boys".[7] Harold Nicolson, a member of this group who found Eden's approach ineffectual, observed that Eden was missing "every boat with exquisite elegance".[8]
Some contemporary observers thought they detected a "prima donna" streak in Eden's appearance; for example, the ageing Earl of Crawford and Balcarres (1871-1940) (whose snobbery was admittedly such that he had professed himself unable to imagine "anything more middle class" than the contents of a greenhouse on King George V's estate at Sandringham[9]) thought him "vain as a peacock and all the mannerisms of a petit maître [in the sense of a dandy or fop]".[10] Less prosaically, W F Deedes, a Minister in Eden's Government who, as a journalist, had once commented unfavourably on the colour of Eden's socks,[11] remarked half a century later that, in the modern vernacular, Eden would have been called a "smoothie".[12] However, there is little objective evidence that Eden was unduly vain about his clothes; he merely dressed well. As for his Homburg, which Deedes noted that he wore at an angle,[13] his official biographer Sir Robert Rhodes James, wrote that "to him it was just a hat".[14]
The hat as a trademark
Even so, the image stuck. The hat became a "trademark" in the public mind, assisting instant recognition. During the general election campaign in 1955, when Eden was Prime Minister, he was presented with "an Eden hat" when he and Lady Eden (he became a Knight of the Garter in 1954) visited the Lancashire hat-making town of Atherton.[15] At various points of the Suez Crisis the following year, cartoons depicted him in the same hat for which he had become known twenty years earlier. In one by Vicky for the New Statesman, a behatted but otherwise barely clothed Eden was shown in the biblical Garden of Eden being tempted with an apple by a young Frenchwoman, presumably Marianne, in the guise of Eve.[16] (The allusion was to French pressure for joint action to reverse the unilateral nationalisation of the Suez Canal by Egyptian President Nasser.)
"Hush! here comes Anthony"
In 1951, two days after Eden's re-appointment as Foreign Secretary, Vicky had, in similar vein, employed the imagery of Antony and Cleopatra to represent Eden approaching the Egyptian throne in suit and hat. King Farouk (overthrown in 1952) and the ancient Queen Cleopatra, as the embodiment of the Egyptian state, were shown to have torn up the treaty of 1936 which provided for Britain's military presence in the Suez Canal zone.[17] The caption, "Hush! here comes Anthony", was taken from Shakespeare.[18] (This cartoon was a reference to Egypt's denunciation of the treaty on 9 October 1951, thus posing an early problem for Winston Churchill's incoming Government.[19])
Hatless
Journalist and social historian Anne de Courcy has written of Chamberlain that "he did not smoke a pipe, nor, like Anthony Eden did, always wear the same distinctive hat, though cartoonists made the most of his ever-present umbrella".[20] In fact, as photographs from the late 1930s onwards show, Eden frequently wore no hat at all. This was a habit that he shared with some other public men of his generation. It was one of several aspects of modernity noted by John Betjeman in his poem on the death in 1936 of King George V, who, like Edward VII before him, had worn a Homburg for shooting:[21]
At the new suburb stretched beyond the runway
... a young man [King Edward VIII] lands hatless from the air".[22]
The Anthony Eden in popular culture
The Anthony Eden hat was essentially an accessory of the 1930s and 40s. The Suez débâcle, followed by Eden's departure from public life in 1957 due to ill health, tended to hasten the drawing of a line that might have seemed inevitable before long in the era of "Angry Young Men", rock 'n' roll and Vespa motor scooters which, according to his wife Clarissa,[23] kept Eden awake at night. As the left-wing historian Eric Hobsbawm put it, "Suez and the coming of rock-and-roll divide twentieth century British history".[24]
"Who wears an Anthony Eden hat today?"
In the 1960s, when hats for men were becoming unfashionable, former diplomat Geoffrey McDermott asked, with evident disdain, "who wears an Anthony Eden hat today? Only Mr Steptoe, Mr Enoch Powell and, rather curiously, [Russian leader] Mr Kosygin. And, of course, all those Carleton-Browne[25] characters at the F[oreign] O[ffice]".[26] Memories did linger, however. In 2006, the son of a Wolverhampton ironmonger recalled a very wet evening on which Enoch Powell, the local Member of Parliament throughout the 1950s and 60s, required a new washer for a tap: "his moustache quivered with urgency and water streamed from the broad rim of his black Homburg hat."[27]
Another well-known wearer of an "Anthony Eden" was Sergeant Arthur Wilson (played by John Le Mesurier) in Dad's Army (1968-77), the BBC TV comedy series about the wartime Home Guard, which Eden established in 1940. In one episode, Captain Mainwaring (Arthur Lowe), who, as manager of a bank, wore a bowler, told Wilson that his hair was too long. Wilson replied that "Mrs Pike [his lover] says it makes me look like Eden".
A further example was the song, "She's Bought a Hat Like Princess Marina", written in 1969 by Ray Davies (b.1944), who was only twelve when Eden resigned as Prime Minister. This was recorded by the Kinks on the album Arthur (Or the Decline and Fall of the British Empire) and contained the lines:
He's bought a hat like Anthony Eden's
Because it makes him feel like a Lord.
NOTE:
Golden hat
Golden hats (or Gold hats) (German: Goldhüte, singular: Goldhut) are a very specific and rare type of archaeological artefact from Bronze Age Central Europe. So far, four such objects ("cone-shaped gold hats of the Schifferstadt type") are known. The objects are made of thin sheet gold and were attached externally to long conical and brimmed headdresses which were probably made of some organic material and served to stabilise the external gold leaf. The following Golden Hats are known at present:
- Golden Hat of Schifferstadt, found in 1835 at Schifferstadt near Speyer, circa 1,400-1,300 BC.
- Avanton Gold Cone, incomplete, found at Avanton near Poitiers in 1844, circa 1,000-900 BC.
- Golden Cone of Ezelsdorf-Buch, found near Ezelsdorf near Nuremberg in 1953, circa 1,000-900 BC; the tallest known specimen at circa 90 cm.
- Berlin Gold Hat, found probably in Swabia or Switzerland, circa 1,000-800 BC; acquired by the Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte, Berlin, in 1996.
Cultural context
The hats are associated with the pre-Proto-Celtic Bronze Age Urnfield culture. Their close similarities in symbolism and techniques of manufacture are testimony to a coherent Bronze Age culture over a wide-ranging territory in eastern France and western and southwestern Germany. A comparable golden pectoral was found at Mold, Flintshire, in northern Wales, but this appears to be of somewhat earlier date.
The cone-shaped Golden Hats of Schifferstadt type are assumed to be connected with a number of comparable cap or crown-shaped gold leaf objects from Ireland (Comerford Crown, discovered in 1692) and the Atlantic coast of Spain (Gold leaf crowns of Axtroki and Rianxo). Only the Spanish specimens survive.
Archaeological context
Unfortunately, the archaeological contexts of the cones are not very clear (for the Berlin specimen, it is entirely unknown). At least two of the known examples (Berlin and Schifferstadt) appear to have been deliberately and carefully buried in antiquity.
Chronology
Although none can be dated clearly, their technology suggests that they were probably made between 1,200 and 800 BC
Function
It is assumed that the Golden Hats served as religious insignia for the deities or priests of a sun cult then widespread in Central Europe. Their use as head-gear is strongly supported by the fact that the three of four examples have a cap-like widening at the bottom of the cone, and that their openings are oval (not round), with diameters and shapes roughly equivalent to those of a human skull. The figural depiction of an object resembling a conical hat on a stone slab of the King's Grave at Kivik, Southern Sweden, strongly supports their association with religion and cult, as does the fact that the known examples appear to have been deposited (buried) carefully.
Attempts to decipher the Golden Hats' ornamentation suggest that their cultic role is accompanied or complemented by a usability as complex calendrical devices. Whether they were really used for such purposes, or simply presented the underlying astronomical knowledge, remains unknown.
Calendars
The Gold leaf cones are covered in bands of ornaments along their whole length end extent. The ornaments, mostly disks and concentric circles, sometimes wheels, were punched using stamps, rolls or combs. The older examples (Avanton, Schifferstadt) show a more restricted range of ornaments than the later ones.
It appears to be the case that the ornaments on all known Golden Hats represent systematic sequences in terms of number and types of ornaments per band.
A detailed study of the Berlin example, which is fully preserved, revealed that the symbols probably represent a lunisolar calendar. The object would have permitted the determination of dates or periods in both lunar and solar calendars.
Since an exact knowledge of the solar year was of special interest for the determination of religiously important events such as the summer and winter solstices, the astronomical knowledge depicted on the Golden Hats was of high value to Bronze Age society. Whether the hats themselves were indeed used for determining such dates, or whether they simply represented such knowledge, remains unknown.
The functions discovered so far would permit the counting of temporal units of up to 57 months. A simple multiplication of such values would also permit the calculation of longer periods, eg. metonic cycles.
Each symbol, or each ring of a symbol, represents a single day. Apart from ornament bands incorporating differing numbers of rings there are special symbols and zones in intercalary areas, which would have had to be added to or subtracted from the periods in question.
The system of this mathematical function incorporated into the artistic ornamentation has not been fully deciphered so far, but a schematic understanding of the Berlin Golden Hat and the periods it delimits has been achieved.
In principle, starting with zone Zi, a sum is achieved by adding a relevant contiguous number of neighbouring sections: Zi .. Zi+n. To reach the equivalent lunar or solar value, from this initial sum must be subtracted the sum of symbols from the intercalary zone(s) within the area counted.
The illustration depicts the solar representation on the left and the lunar one on the right. The red or blue fields in zones 5, 7, 16 and 17 are intercalary zones.
The values in the individual fields are reached by multiplying the number of symbols per zone with the number of rings or circles incorporated in each predominant symbol. The special symbols in zone 5 are assigned the value of "38", as indicated by their number.
- Example
- Zone 12 is dominated by 20 repetitions of punched symbol No. 14, a circular disc symbol surrounded by 5 concentric circles.
- Thus, the symbol has the value of 20 x 5 = 100.
- The smaller ring symbols placed between the larger repetitions of No. 14 are considered as mere ornaments and thus not counted.
- Zone 12 is dominated by 20 repetitions of punched symbol No. 14, a circular disc symbol surrounded by 5 concentric circles.
Through this system, the Hats can be used to calculate a lunisolar calendrical system, i.e. a direct reading in either lunar or solar dates, as well as the conversion between them.
The table can be used in the same way as the original Golden Hats. To determine the number of days in a specific time period (yellow fields), the values of the coloured fields above are added, reaching an intermediate sum. If any of the red intercalary zones are included, their sum has to be subtracted. This allows the the calculation of 12, 24, 36, 48, 54 and 57 synodic months in the lunar system and of 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 54 and 57 sun months (ie. twelfths of a tropical year).
- Example
- To determine a 54 month cycle in the lunar system, the numerical values of the green or blue zones 3 to 21 are added, reaching a sum of 1,739 days. From this, the values of the red intercalary fields 5, 16 and 17 are subtracted, The result is 1739-142=1597 days, or 54 synodic months of 29.5305 days each.
The overall discrepancy of 2 days to the astronomically accurate value is probably the result of a slight imprecision in the Bronze Age observation of synodic and solar month.
Manufacture
The Golden hats known so far are made from a gold alloy containing 85-90% Au, circa 10% Ag and traces of copper and tin (< 1% each). They are made of seamless single pieces of gold leaf, hammered to a thinness between 0.25 mm (Schifferstadt) and 0.06 mm (Berlin). Thus, the cones are surprisingly light considering their size. The Ezelsdorf example, measuring 89 cm in height, weighs only 280 g.
Because of the tribological characteristics of the material, it tends to harden with increasing deformation (see ductility), increasing its potential to crack. To avoid cracking, an extremely even deformation was necessary. Additionally, the material had to be softened by repeatedly heating it to a temperature of at least 750 °C.
Since gold alloy has a relatively low melting point of circa 960 °C, a very careful temperature control and an isothermal heating process were required, so as to avoid melting any of the surface. For this, the Bronze Age artisans used a charcoal fire or oven similar to those used for pottery. The temperature could only be controlled through the addition of oxygen, using a bellows.
Considering the tribologic conditions and the technical means available at the time, the production even of an undecorated Golden hat would represent an immense technical achievement.
In the course of their further manufacture, the Golden hats were embellished with rows of radial ornamental bands, chased into the metal. To make this possible, they were probably filled with a putty or pitch based on tree resin and wax - in the Schifferstadt specimen, traces of this have survived. The thin gold leaf was structured by chasing: stamp-like tools or moulds depicting the individual symbols were repeatedly pressed into (or rolled along) the exterior of the gold. Combs were also used.
Exhibitions
The gold hats were first brought together for comparison and set in the broader context of the culture of Bronze Age Europe in a 1999 exhibition in Bonn, Gods and heroes of the Bronze Age: Europe in the time of Odysseus. Normally they reside in separate museums, at Berlin (Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte), Speyer (Historisches Museum der Pfalz, the Schifferstadt specimen), Nuremberg (Germanisches Nationalmuseum, the Ezelsdorf one), and Saint-Germain-en-Laye (Musée d'Archéologie Nationale).
Related objects
The golden hats, or more specifically, the sun cult they appear to have expressed or served, are also often seen as connected with a number of other prominent works of Bronze Age or early Iron Age art. These include the Nebra skydisk, which predates them but implies similarly advanced astronomic knowledge, the Mold cape, which is of a similar standard of workmanship and is likely to have adorned a priest or otherwise special individual, the Trundholm Sun Chariot, a clear representation of sun-related beliefs, a variety of Scandinavian petroglyphs, and assemblages like the Bernstorf Gold Hoard, with golden elements originally attached to clothing, or the Eberswalde Treasure, which features similar decorative motifs to those on the hats. The widespread distribution of the Sun cross and similar motifs in Bronze Age central and northern Europe may also be connected.
NOTE:
Jewish hat
The Jewish hat also known as the Jewish cap, Judenhut (German) or Latin pilleus cornutus ("horned skullcap"), was a white or yellow cone-shaped pointed hat worn by Jews in Medieval Europe and some of the Islamic world. Initially worn by choice, its wearing was enforced in Europe after 1215 for adult male Jews to wear while outside a ghetto in order to distinguish Jews from others. Like the phrygian cap it often resembles, the hat may have originated in pre-Islamic Persia—a similar hat was worn by Babylonian Jews.[1]
Europe
This Jewish figure wearing a Jewish hat, in a detail of a medieval Hebrew calendar, reminded Jews of the palm branch (Lulav), the myrtle twigs, the willow branches, and the citron (Etrog) to be held in the hand and to be brought to the synagogue during the holiday of sukkot, near the end of the autumn holiday season.
In Europe, the Jewish hat is seen in France from the 11th century, and Italy from the 12th, presumably arriving from the Islamic world. Under Jewish law, observant Jews should keep their heads covered almost all the time.[2] Unlike the yellow badge, the Jewish hat is often seen in illustrated Hebrew manuscripts, and was later included by German Jews in their seals and coats of arms, suggesting that at least initially it was regarded by European Jews as "an element of traditional garb, rather than an imposed discrimination".[3] The hat is also worn in Christian pictures by figures such as Saint Joseph and sometimes Jesus (see below). However, once "made obligatory, the hat, hitherto deliberately different from hats worn by Christians, was viewed by Jews in a negative light"[4] A law in Breslau in 1267 said that since Jews had stopped wearing the pointed hats they used to wear, this would be made compulsory.[5]
The Fourth Council of the Lateran of 1215 ruled that Jews and Muslims must be distinguishable by their dress (Latin "habitus"), the rationale given being: "In some provinces the dress of Jews and Saracens distinguishes them from Christians, but in others a degree of confusion has arisen, so that they cannot be recognised by any distinguishing marks. As a result, in error Christians have sexual intercourse with Jewish or Saracen women, and Jews and Saracens have intercourse with Christian women. In order that the crime of such an accursed mingling shall not in future have an excuse and an evasion under the pretext of error, we resolve that (Jews and Saracens) of both sexes in all Christian lands shall distinguish themselves publically from other people by their dress. According to the testimony of scripture, such a precept was already made by Moses (Lev.19.19; Deut.22.5.11)".[6]
Daniel in stained glass, Augsburg, Germany, first half of 12th century
More detailed rules were enacted locally by rulers. The council decision was confirmed by the Council of Vienne of 1311-12. In 1267 the hat was made compulsory in Vienna. A doctor was given a temporary dispensation from wearing it in Venice in 1528, at the request of various distinguished patients.[7] Pope Paul IV ordered in 1555 that in the Papal States it must be a yellow, peaked hat, and from 1567 for twenty years it was compulsory in Lithuania, but by this period it is rarely seen in most of Europe.[8] As an outcome of the Jewish Emancipation its use was formally discontinued, although it had been declining long before that, and is not often seen after 1500; the various forms of the yellow badge were far more long-lasting.[9] This was another form of distinguishing mark, not found in Europe before 1215, and later reintroduced by the Nazis. In some pictures from all parts of the Middle Ages, rabbis or other Jewish leaders wear the Jewish hat when other Jews do not, which may reflect reality.[10]
The shape of the hat is variable. Sometimes, especially in the 13th century, it is a soft Phrygian cap, but rather more common in the early period is a hat with a round circular brim - apparently stiff - curving round to a tapering top that ends in a point.[11] Smaller versions perching on top of the head are also seen. Sometimes a ring of some sort encircles the hat an inch or two over the top of the head. In the 14th century a ball or bobble appears at the top of the hat, and the tapering end becomes more of a stalk with a relatively constant width.[12] The top of the hat becomes flatter, or rounded (as in the Codex Manesse picture).
By the end of the Middle Ages the hat is steadily replaced by a variety of headgear including exotic flared Eastern style hats, turbans and, from the 15th century, wide flat hats and large berets. In pictures of Biblical scenes these sometimes represent attempts to portray the contemporary dress of the (modern) time worn in the Holy Land, but all the same styles are to be seen in some images of contemporary European scenes. Where a distinctive pointed Jewish hat remains it has become much less defined in shape, and baggy. Loose turbans, wide flat hats, and berets, as well as new fur hat styles from the Pale of Settlement, remain associated with Jews up to the 18th century and beyond.
The Islamic World
Christian painting of an Old Testament sacrifice, 1483, with various forms of Jewish hat, as well as turbans and other exotic styles. By this date it is hard to judge how illustrations like these relate to actual contemporary dress.
For dhimmis (non-Muslims) to be clearly distinguishable from Muslims in public, Muslim rulers often prohibited dhimmis from wearing certain types of clothing, while forcing them to put on highly distinctive garments, usually of a bright color. The scholars cited the Pact of Umar in which Christians supposedly took an obligation to "always dress in the same way wherever we may be, and… bind the zunar [wide belt] round our waists". Al-Nawawi required dhimmis to wear a piece of yellow cloth and a belt, as well as a metallic ring, inside public baths.[13]
Regulations on dhimmi clothing varied frequently to please the whims of the ruler. Although the initiation of such regulations is usually attributed to Umar I, historical evidence suggests that it was the Abbasid caliphs who pioneered this practice. In 850 the caliph al‑Mutawakkil ordered Christians and Jews to wear both a sash called a zunnah and a distinctive kind of shawl or headscarf called a taylasin (the Christians had already been required to wear the sash).[14] He also required them to wear small bells in public baths. In the 11th century, the Fatimid caliph Al-Hakim ordered Christians to put on half-meter wooden crosses and Jews to wear wooden calves around their necks. In the late 12th century, Almohad ruler Abu Yusuf ordered the Jews of the Maghreb to wear dark blue garments with long sleeves and saddle-like caps. His grandson Abdallah al-Adil made a concession after appeals from the Jews, relaxing the required clothing to yellow garments and turbans. In the 16th century, Jews of the Maghreb could only wear sandals made of rushes and black turbans or caps with an extra red piece of cloth.[15]
Ottoman sultans continued to regulate the clothing of their non-Muslim subjects. In 1577, Murad III issued a firman forbidding Jews and Christians from wearing dresses, turbans, and sandals. In 1580, he changed his mind, restricting the previous prohibition to turbans and requiring dhimmis to wear black shoes; Jews and Christians also had to wear red and black hats, respectively. Observing in 1730 that some Muslims took to the habit of wearing caps similar to those of the Jews, Mahmud I ordered the hanging of the perpetrators. Mustafa III personally helped to enforce his decrees regarding clothes. In 1758, he was walking incognito in Istanbul and ordered the beheading of a Jew and an Armenian seen dressed in forbidden attire. The last Ottoman decree affirming the distinctive clothing for dhimmis was issued in 1837 by Mahmud II. Discriminatory clothing was not enforced in those Ottoman provinces where Christians were the majority, such as Greece and the Balkans.[16]
Jewish hat in art
12th century German Nativity of Mary with Joachim wearing the hat
The Jewish hat is frequently used in medieval art to denote Jews of the Biblical period. Often the Jews so shown are those shown in an unfavourable light by the story being depicted, such as the money-changers expelled by Jesus from the Temple (Matthew.21.12-17), but this is by no means always the case. The husband of Mary, Saint Joseph, is often shown wearing a Jewish hat, and Jesus himself may be shown wearing one, especially in depictions of the "meeting at Emmaus", where his disciples do not recognise him at first (Luke.24.13-32).[17] Sometimes it is used to distinguish Jews from other peoples such as Egyptians or Philistines.
In notable contrast to forms of jewish badge, the Jewish hat is often seen in Hebrew manuscript illuminations such as Haggadot made in medieval Europe (picture above). In the Bird's Head Haggadah (Germany, c. 1300, now Jerusalem), the figures wear the hat when sitting to eat the Passover Seder.
Judenkopf Groschen
William III the brave (1425-1482) of Meissen, minted a silver groschen known as the Judenkopf Groschen. Its obverse portrait shows a man with a pointed beard wearing a Judenhut, which the populace took as depicting a typical Jew.
NOTE:
Hard hat
Some contemporary cap-style hard hats feature a rolled edge that acts like a rain gutter to channel rainwater to the front, allowing it to drain off the bill, instead of letting the water run down the wearer's neck.
U.S. Navy sailors loading cargo onto a container ship. Due to the frigid temperatures in Antarctica, they are wearing cold weather clothing in addition to hard hats.
A hard hat issued by a firm often has that firm's name or some word or logo on its front.
Blue-collar workers engaged in occupations that require protective equipment are sometimes called "hard hats".
Hard hat colors can signify different roles on construction sites. For instance, white might signify supervisors, blue technical advisors, red safety inspectors, and yellow laborers.
A hard hat also gives a worker a distinctive profile, identifiable even in peripheral vision, for safety around equipment or traffic. Safety colors like orange or green do not appear in peripheral vision, but the hard hatted shape of a worker will be avoided.
Even if a hard hat is properly inspected and maintained, it should be replaced after five years of use.
The inside of a typical hard hat
In 1997, the American National Standards Institute revised its performance standards for hard hats. Conformity to these standards and regulation are not necessary but almost all manufactures comply:
ANSI Type I / CSA Type 1 hard hats meet stringent vertical impact and penetration requirements.
ANSI Type II / CSA Type 2 hard hats meet both vertical and lateral impact and penetration requirements and have a foam inner liner of expanded polystyrene (EPS).
A Class E hard hat has been proof-tested to insulate up to 20,000 volts of electrical potential.
ANSI have compliance for hard hats and their combustibility or flammability criteria.
A bump cap is a lightweight kind of hard hat with simplified suspension or padding in lieu of suspension and having only a chin strap. It is used where there is a possibility of scraping or bumping one's head on equipment or structure projections, but is not strong enough to absorb large impacts, such as from a tool dropped several stories.
History
Management professor Peter Drucker credits writer Franz Kafka with developing the first civilian hard hat when he was employed at the Worker's Accident Insurance Institute for the Kingdom of Bohemia (1912), but this is not supported by any document from his employer.[1]
In the United States, the E.D. Bullard Company was a mining equipment firm in California, created by Edward Dickinson Bullard in 1898, who was in the industrial safety business for 20 years. The company sold protective hats, but they were only made of leather. His son, E.W. Bullard, arrived home from World War I with a steel helmet, which provided him with an idea to improve industrial safety. In 1919 Bullard patented a "Hard-Boiled Hat", made of steamed canvas, glue and black paint. That same year the U.S. Navy commissioned Bullard to create a shipyard protective cap, which began the widespread use of hard hats. Not long after, Bullard developed an internal suspension that would provide a more effective hat. These early designs bore a resemblance to the military M1917 "Brodie" helmet, which served as their inspiration.
In 1933 construction began on the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco California.[2] This was the first construction site in history where construction workers were required to wear hard hats, by order of Joseph Strauss, the project chief engineer. He wanted the workplace to be as safe as possible; hence, he installed safety nets and required hard hats while on the job site. Strauss also asked Bullard to create a hard hat to protect workers who performed sandblasting. Bullard produced a design that covered the worker's face, provided a window for vision and a supply of fresh air via a hose connected to the air compressor.
aluminum became a standard for hard hats around 1938, except in electrical applications.
Fiberglass came into use in the 1940s.
Thermoplastics took over in the 1950s, because they were easy to mold and shape with heat and cost less to manufacture. Today, most hard hats are made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or advanced engineering resins, such as Ultem.
Brown fiberglass hard hats are still preferred by workers who buy their own equipment, for better balance, lighter weight, resistance to scrapes and stains, and shedding rain without big drops forming on the edge. These hats stay on when tilting the head at an extreme angle.
In 1997 ANSI allowed the development of a ventilated hard hat to keep wearers cooler. To it could be added accessories like face shields, sun visors, earmuffs, and perspiration-absorbing cloths which line the hats. Today, attachments include radios, walkietalkies, pagers, and cameras.
For nearly sixty years, aluminum hard hats were popular and had almost a cult-like following, but were phased out about 1997 when new regulations required stricter safety standards. There were about a half dozen companies producing a version of the aluminum hat throughout that time. Nearly a decade later, new full brim and cap-style aluminum hard hats were introduced by Skull Bucket. They are easily recognizable due to a reinforced crown, secured by eight rivets. They are constructed of an advanced aluminum alloy and comply with ANSI safety requirements. Aluminum hard hats are used almost exclusively by oil well fire fighters due to the extreme heat they encounter. The forestry industry and loggers favor the aluminum version as well, many wearers remembering the solid, reliable McDonald-T hard hats that were so popular for years. Other industries using the aluminum hard hat are rock quarries, heavy machine operation, oil production, mining, bridge construction and maintenance, water well drilling and pipelines, and construction. The aluminum hats are restricted from use wherever electrical hazards exist. To our knowledge, Skull Bucket is the only company currently manufacturing aluminum hard hats.
NOTE:
chiffon scarves&chiffon scarves
Panama hat
Panama hats sold on a street market in Ecuador
A Panama hat or just Panama is a traditional brimmed hat of Ecuadorian origin that is made from the plaited leaves of the toquilla straw plant (Carludovica palmata). Straw hats woven in Ecuador, like many other 19th and early 20th century South American goods, were shipped first to the Isthmus of Panama before sailing for their destinations in Asia, the rest of the Americas, and Europe. For some products, the name of their point of international sale rather than their place of domestic origin stuck, hence “Panama hats.”[1] The 49ers picked up these hats in Panama, and when President Theodore Roosevelt visited the Panama Canal construction, he wore such a hat, which increased its popularity. They're also known as a Jipijapa, named for a town in Ecuador once a center of the hat trade. The Oxford English Dictionary cites a use of the term as early as 1834.[2]
Glorified during the 19th century, the Panama has since been considered the prince of straw hats. Ecuadorian national hero and emblematic figure, Eloy Alfaro helped finance his liberal revolution of Ecuador through the export of panamas. The reputation of the hat was established by Napoleon III, Edward VII, and some other aficionados.
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Popularity and culture
Panama hats are often seen as accessories to summer weight suits, such as linen or silk. Beginning around the turn of the century, panamas began to be associated with the seaside and tropical locales, such as Brighton or the Caribbean. They are usually preferred over felt hats in such climates for they are light coloured, light weight, and breathable.
Beginning in the late 1960s, hats in general were worn less often. However, the Panama seems to be one of the few hats to survive the tests of time. Men can still be seen sporting a Panama in the tropics. It is, by no means, as popular as it was during the golden age of hats, but it is still surviving. As a matter of fact, well founded hat companies, such as Dobbs, Stetson and Cavanaugh, now produce more Panama styled hats than felt hats, such as fedoras or bowlers.
In the long-running British sci-fi television show, Doctor Who, the Panama was worn rarely by the First Doctor (William Hartnell), occasionally by the Fifth Doctor (Peter Davison) in a rolled up style, and most frequently by the Seventh Doctor (Sylvester McCoy).
Quality
Panama hat quality is a heavily disputed subject. There are two main processes in the hat's creation: weaving and blocking. The best way to gauge the quality of the weave is to count the number of weaves per square inch. Fewer than 100 would be considered low quality.[citation needed] There are many degrees of increasing quality, up to the rarest and most expensive hats, which can have as many as 1600–2000 weaves per square inch[citation needed]; it is not unheard of for these hats to sell for thousands of dollars apiece, a $500.00 hat for $30,000 no less.
The quality of the weave itself, however, is more important. A high weave count, even an attractive-looking one, does not guarantee a well-woven hat. It is said that a Panama of true quality can hold water and can be folded for storage without damage.
Even though the Panama continues to provide a livelihood for thousands of Ecuadorians, fewer than a dozen weavers capable of making the finest "montecristi superfinos" remain; the UK's Financial Times Magazine (Jan. 2007) recently reported that there may not be more than 15-20 years remaining for the industry in Ecuador, due to the competition of paper-based Chinese-made imitations, especially as a few hat sellers dominate and manipulate the market, killing the industry.
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Tin foil hat
Tin foil hats and paranoia
Various web sites claim that people believe in the efficacy of tin foil hats and similar devices to stop the voices in their head or prevent the government, paranormal beings, or aliens from reading and/or controlling their minds. These people believe that the foil deflects mind control signals from, for instance, project HAARP, which allegedly transmits mind-control signals from mobile phone towers. These draw on the stereotypical images of mind control operating by ESP or by technological means, like microwave radiation. Belief in the effectiveness of tin foil hats is popularly linked to mental illnesses such as paranoid schizophrenia.[1]
Scientific basis
Two people wearing tin foil hats.
The belief that a tin foil hat can significantly reduce the intensity of incident radio frequency (RF) radiation on the wearer's brain is not completely without a basis in scientific fact. A well constructed tin foil enclosure would approximate a Faraday cage, reducing the amount of radiofrequency electromagnetic radiation entering from outside. A common high school physics demonstration involves placing an AM radio on tin foil, and then covering the radio with a metal bucket. This leads to a noticeable reduction in signal strength. The efficiency of such an enclosure in blocking such radiation depends on the thickness of the tin foil, as dictated by the skin depth, the distance the radiation can propagate in a particular non-ideal conductor. For half-millimeter-thick tin foil, radiation above about 20 kHz (i.e., including both AM and FM bands) would be partially blocked.[2]
The effectiveness of the tin foil hat as electromagnetic shielding for stopping radio waves is greatly reduced by the fact that it is not a complete enclosure. Placing an AM radio under a metal bucket without a conductive layer underneath demonstrates the relative ineffectiveness of such a setup. Because the effect of an ungrounded Faraday cage is to partially reflect the incident radiation, a radio wave that is incident on the inner surface of the hat (i.e., coming from underneath the hat-wearer) would be reflected and partially 'focused' towards the user's brain. While tin foil hats may have originated in some understanding of the Faraday cage effect, the use of such a hat to attenuate radio waves belongs properly to the realm of pseudoscience.
A study by graduate students at MIT determined that a tin foil hat could either amplify or attenuate incoming radiation depending on frequency. The effect was observed to be roughly independent of the relative placement of the wearer and radiation source.[3] At GHz wavelengths, the skin depth is less than the thickness of even the thinnest foil.
Despite some allegations that electromagnetic radiation (EMR) exposure has harmful effects on health ,[4] at this time, no link has been verifiably proven between the radio-frequency EMR that tin foil hats are meant to protect against and subsequent ill health.
Tin foil hats in popular culture
EastEnders character Joe Wicks was briefly portrayed constructing and wearing his own tin foil hat as part of a storyline which saw him suffering from schizophrenia.
The novel Idiots in the Machine by Edward Savio portrays a character who believes that tin foil keeps harmful gamma rays away and becomes a media sensation, marketing a successful line of foil hats to Chicago.
In an episode of The Simpsons, "Brother's Little Helper", Bart becomes paranoid after taking an ADD drug called Focusin, leading him to believe that Major League Baseball is spying on him and begins donning a tin foil hat.
The tin foil hat was an April Fool's Day item for the MMORPG World of Warcraft, created by Blizzard to parody player paranoia about their character information being searchable on the World of Warcraft armory website.[6]
In M. Night Shyamalan's 2002 film Signs, the Hesses don tin foil hats to protect from invading aliens.
One character in the 2007 film The Signal wears a tin foil hat in an attempt to block the titular "signal" turning people into murderous madmen.
In the 1956 novel Slave Ship by Frederick Pohl, various characters wear tin foil hats to protect themselves from telepathic attacks.
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Campaign hat
History
The origins of the hat can be traced to the 1840s when army troops posted in the west happily donned themselves civilian hats which were far more practical than the shakos or kepis then in vogue with most western armies. The name started to be used after the 1872–1876 regulations which introduced a black felt hat — which could be drab after 1883 — for fatigue use derived from the types popularized during the American Civil War. During the Spanish–American War the standard central crease on the crown was found to be impractical as it tended to hold the rainwater from the frequent tropical downpours. Many soldiers reshaped the crown to form a pinched "Montana peak." The army officially adopted the peaked design in 1911.
The hat is often associated with Sir Robert Baden-Powell who introduced the hat for the South African Constabulary and the Boy Scouts.
Through the World War I era, the campaign hat worn by American soldiers was fairly soft. Those worn by the United States Army's General officers had a golden cord around it, whereas other Commissioned officers had a golden-and-black cord around their hat. Field Clerks, as well as their post-war successors the Warrant officers, had a silver-and-black cord, while other ranks had cords in their branch-of-service colors. The United States Marine Corps had the Eagle, Globe, and Anchor badge in black at the front of their campaign hats; its officers had an additional golden-and-scarlet cord around their hat, whereas its other ranks had none.[1]
By the 1930s the felt was made very stiff with a permanently flat brim. Due to the frequent wearing of helmets in France in World War I, most troops received a copy of the French bonnet du police that became known as the overseas cap. In 1942 the campaign hat ceased to be issued generally, but it was the trademark of General Joseph Stilwell.
Current usage
United States armed forces
The hat worn by United States Army drill sergeants is olive drab in color with the Great Seal of the United States on a disc, in golden color, centered on the front (For Infantry drill sergeants, they have a blue disc with the Seal inside). U.S. Marine Corps Drill Instructors and Rifle Range Instructors wear similar hats with a flat black Eagle, Globe, and Anchor centered on the front. Enlisted Men no longer wear cords around the hats, but U.S. Marine Corps officers who are eligible to wear the Campaign Hat wear a scarlet and gold cord, with generals wearing a solid gold cord. The U.S. Marine Corps had their hats authorized in 1956 by the 21st Commandant General Pate. The hat was issued on 20 July 1956.[2]
United States Air Force Military Training Instructors (MTI) wear navy blue hats with the Great Seal of the United States within a ring, in silver color, again centered on the front. Air Force MTIs who are qualified to teach new MTIs are identified by a black cord around the hat. MTIs in the top ten percent of their career field wear a light blue cord and are more likely to be referred to as "Blue Ropes" than MTIs. U.S. Coast Guard Drill Instructors wear a navy blue version with a black cord, and the insignia worn is the same as would be worn with the combination cover.
Royal Canadian Mounted Police
In Canada the Stetson was the official dress hat of the Northwest Mounted Police (later Royal Canadian Mounted Police, who retain it as part of the full dress uniform) as well as Canadian cavalry units in the First World War. The hat was phased out of military use by the service dress cap following the First World War. It is also used by members of the Ontario Provincial Police, but it is being phased out due to problems wearing them in police cruisers. Though similar to the U.S. Campaign Hat, the indentations of the hat are different.
New Zealand Army
New Zealand Army, whose uniforms have historically followed the British pattern, has the campaign hat (known as the "lemon squeezer" hat) as the most visible national distinction. This was adopted by the Wellington Regiment about 1912 and became general issue for all New Zealand units during the latter stages of World War I. The different branches of service were distinguished by coloured puggarees or wide bands around the base of the crown (blue and red for artillery, green for mounted rifles, khaki and red for infantry etc). The "lemon squeezer" was worn to a certain extent during World War II, although often replaced by more convenient forage caps or berets. After being in abeyance since the 1950s, the "lemon squeezer" has recently been reintroduced for parade dress where it is usually worn with a version of the khaki "no 2" service dress of the British Army. Officer cadets and some bands wear this headdress with a scarlet and blue full dress uniform.
Park Rangers
NPS director Mary Bomar in uniform
Campaign hats are still worn by U.S. park rangers of the National Park Service and forest rangers of the United States Forest Service. Many local park rangers may also wear the campaign hat.
Law enforcement
Several U.S. state police services and some local police (including numerous county sheriffs' services) wear campaign hats. So common is it among state highway police that they are sometimes referred to as "smokeys," after Smokey Bear, the logo-character of the U.S. Park Rangers who wears one (though state police have no relationship to park rangers, the nickname was born of the physical similarity with the cartoon figure).
Boy Scouts
The campaign hat is still available for wear by Boy Scouts of the Boy Scouts of America. Because this style of hat is also so traditionally associated with Scouting, campaign hats are often used as presentation items by troops and local councils for adult Scouters and community and business leaders being honored for their service to the Scouting movement.
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Promotional Silicone Bracelets